3D Prototyping Journey- From physical fit samples to virtual fit samples
At Americo Group, a leading Walmart Mens Private label supplier with over $20 million in annual sales, we were presented with the initiative of improving our fit sample process and making it more digital.
As Americo’s Technical Design Manager and technical lead, my main responsibilities were developing specs and construction guidelines for development samples and overseeing the end -to end fit approval process from initial proto samples through the pre-production stage.
After 3 years of proving my competency in this area and learning Walmart’s processes and business requirements, I became Walmart Fit Tech Certified, which allowed me greater autonomy and ownership of the approval process, enabling me to do all pre-production approvals in house, instead of sending duplicate samples to Walmart’s offices for their verification & approval. This certification was also a major step in allowing me to spearhead new initiatives like the Browzwear 3D software launch for Americo .
Role, Scope and Duration:
The Browzwear 3D initiative was introduced to us in early 2017 by our partners at Walmart. Americo was picked to be one of the first suppliers for onboarding and training. After an initial meeting with the client, where we were presented with a timeline and expected launch date, I attended a few seminars to gather more information and spoke to other companies already using the software. I studied tutorials and learned about best practices and Walmart’s virtual quality standards (VQS).
The goals for the set up and launch date of Spring 2018 were the following:
Create a digital library of block styles.
Modify block styles to create season specific styles and design details.
Upload and publish styles to seasonal boards in Stylezone, Browzwear’s virtual file sharing program.
Problem Statement:
How can we improve the fit sample making process to make it more cost effective, more efficient and more sustainable?
How Might We:
1) Reduce the amount of samples needed to be requested from our factories, thereby saving material, labor and shipping costs.
2) Speed up the approval process, by viewing samples virtually and making high level design and fit decisions at earlier stages.
3) Improve our sustainability score (HIGG index) and reduce our carbon footprint.
Case Study: The George Stretch Pique Polo- A “perennial” block style that we produced for Walmart from 2015-2021. Size range: XS-5XL. Total production units: $4-$5 million units per season.
The Software Tools & Processes:
Browzwear
We utilized 3 different programs and Cloud licenses:
V-Stitcher- The technical program used to import electronic patterns, clean up pattern files, stitch up patterns, import virtual avatars and finally simulate the garment on the avatar.
Lotta- The design program used to assign correct fabric and trims and embellish garments with colors and prints and other design details.
Stylezone- The file sharing program used to view virtual samples, make comments and upload different design iterations.
The basic training (Browzwear level 1 & 2) we completed in about 3 months. Our Design and Technical Teams had 5 days of classroom training with a live trainer, followed by online support calls and tutorials. After that we were ready to start building our block library and begun to get feedback from Walmart on our styles.
After a sufficient amount of practice , we started uploading our virtual samples to Stylezone and created virtual fit samples to be viewed alongside our physical fit samples.
Alvanon
The counterpart to Browzwear. Alvanon makes physical fit forms and virtual avatars via the Alvanon Body Platform subscription and they have an on-going collaboration with Walmart in establishing fit standards.
Walmart Men’s Fit sizes are M and 2XL. We got yearly subscriptions for both virtual avatars
Physical Fit samples in sizes M & 2XL on dress forms.
The size M virtual fit sample on avatar . Electronic pattern is uploaded as DXF file on the left.
The size 2XL virtual fit sample on avatar. Electronic pattern is uploaded as BW file on the left.
Challenges and Outcomes:
1) We needed to make sure that our 3D samples accurately reflected our physical fit samples. Having the correct fabric quality was essential to getting the proper fit and drape of the garment.
Since we didn’t have access to a 3D scanner (in house), we used Browzwear’s 3D scanning services, by sending fabric swatches of our core fabrics for scanning and importing. This sometimes caused delays, but after a few learning lessons, we started collaborating with the sales & product development teams at earlier stages and sending our reference fabrics out earlier, anticipating “buy commitments” after receiving Walmart’s “yarn commitments”. Getting ahead of the timeline was necessary in meeting our deliverables.
2) Another challenge was explaining to the client that slight fabric variances due to individual factories and country of origin needed to be represented by a limited amount of core fabrics in our fabric library.
We negotiated with client and defined how to best represent our “evergreen” core fabrics that carryover from season to season and establish these in our fabric library. Once we were aligned with fabric, design and fit we started seeing results and more accurate fit samples. After a year we were able to reduce the amount of physical fit samples by 30%.
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Americo Group saved $50 000 annually in sample making costs
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By viewing virtual fit samples with client, we were able to identify key silhouettes and fit direction and align without the delay of requesting several rounds of physical fit samples. This also helped greatly during the Pandemic lockdowns where we didn’t have access to the office space.
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We reduced overall sampling by 30%, saving raw materials and shipping supplies.
Stylezone: The online file sharing platform for Browzwear, allows you to upload the virtual sample, view it from different angles and exchange comments with clients and cross- functional team members.
V -Stitcher: The electronic pattern is on the left and the virtual fit sample is stitched up & simulated on the avatar to the right of screen.